Category: Women / Girls

MOROCCAN: Sara Chraibi, Founder of Maison Sara Chraibi Discusses Her Haute Couture Designs

This January, Sara Chraibi, founder of Maison Sara Chraibi presented for the first time at Paris Haute Couture Week. The Moroccan designer greatly impressed critics with her collection which combines traditional Moroccan craftsmanship with modern elements and materials for a unique style that celebrates her heritage but also appeals to the contemporary woman.

After living in Paris and working as an architect for several years, Chraibi returned to her home country to establish her fashion brand. It was a major shift in cultures but she wanted to be in her homeland in order to find ways to embrace the traditional craftsmanship techniques and find new ways to express this as a form of contemporary luxury. Her designs are deeply rooted in traditions but also appeal to the wider world. This season Chraibi presented her Spring/Summer 2023 collection at Paris Fashion Week after being invited by the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode to showcase her designs to the world. Here we find out more about the experience and what we can expect to see from her brand moving forward.

Tell us a little about how your brand came to life.

I grew up in an environment of art and culture. As a child, I was introduced to sewing and embroidery by my mother. After my architectural studies in Rabat, I moved to Paris where I wrote a diploma (DEA) in “Philosophy and Theory of Architecture”. In Paris, my passion for fashion and couture is nourished by the vitality and ​​creativity of the city. Alongside my job as an architect, I then began to draw, sew and embroider a multitude of couture pieces.

In 2012, I presented my first collection “Anatomic Architecture” during the final of a Competition organized by “Ateliers de Paris”. In the same year, I participated in Festimode Casablanca Fashion Week where the models paraded in front of the Casablanca cathedral. Greeted unanimously by the public and the press, these first appearances were the beginning of my professional retraining.

Congratulations on the Spring/Summer 2023 collection – tell us about this collection and how it came to life. 

When I started working on this collection, I wanted to share several elements of my personal story, my influences and my sensitivity to the world. I had this idea of ​​weaving a collection where each thread would represent part of the story: beginning with the architecture, the relationship to the structure of the garment, then there is the know-how, coming from a Moroccan textile tradition and the memory of the elegance of Moroccan women, there is this double culture that makes the originality of my point of view on fashion. I wanted to weave all this together and make it into a framework to tell a new reality.

This was your first time showing at such a level tell us about your experience being a guest member of the FMHC. 

For me, Haute couture is a dream, a celebration of uniqueness and being part of it as a guest member is a milestone for my brand.

Can you tell us about some of the traditional techniques that you used in your designs and how you have evolved the techniques and craftsmanship to give them a modern twist?

With my work, I take patterns, shapes and ancient techniques from Morocco but I add a certain twist or reinvent them in a new way. For example, I used the “sfifa” weaving technique to create a fabric rather than using it as an ornament, as is done traditionally. I mixed raw materials from Morocco, and I used golden thread and silk fringe to build garments as a link between two cultures and realities. I see traditional craftsmanship both as an inspiration and a call to innovation.

How do your heritage and upbringing influence your work today?

My brand is built around the Moroccan art of living, my architectural background and my interest in couture know-how inspire it. My brand aesthetic evolves around the idea of subdued femininity. With a timeless approach to eveningwear, I merge the East and West through one-of-a-kind couture garments.

Tell us about your first memory of fashion. 

I remember times before my mother had an important party, we would stroll from stall to stall in the markets in search of fabric and she would make dresses from scratch. I would sit next to her and watch her assemble the pieces of fabric one by one and sculpt the garment. At that time I started to collect fabric scraps to in turn sew something for my barbie doll. There was something magical about those moments. As I grew up, I remember my impatience to get dressed for these events; to put on a beautiful dress, to finally be part of the adult world, with all those sophisticated ladies, perfumed, richly adorned in silk and lace, with an appearance that made everyone’s heads turn. The women of Morocco are beautiful and sensual and wearing a caftan is an ancestral tradition, a ritual that is passed down from mother to daughter.

How do you think your background in architecture has influenced your designs and the way you put looks together?

I quickly realised that fashion and architecture could share the same vision. As an architect, I liked the modern period. In my clothing designs, I am influenced by modern architecture. All my attention goes to the purity of the lines, to the elegance and the lightness of the structure, it is a sort of quest for the essential.

What is the vision for your brand moving forward?

For me, succeeding in the world of fashion comprises several essential elements: commercial success, of course, but also and above all, success together as a team to share values ​​and wealth, to ensure that each person in the company grows through their work. There is also a cultural success, where in addition to offering products, a brand manages to permanently establish its universe in the collective imagination. That’s all I want to achieve for my brand.

Who are some of the designers or brands that you admire?

Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin, and Elsa Schiaparelli, all made contemporary fashion history with a feminine point of view. I also admired Lee McQueen’s vision and Azzedine Alaia’s sharpness.

There are few brands from the Arab region that have managed to reach success on a global level – what is your opinion on this and what advice would you give to aspiring designers in the Middle East?

I wish that there are more and more brands with an Arab or oriental DNA on the international scene. Fashion is a great tool of soft power. Each new designer who launches in the region is responsible for spreading our culture to the rest of the world.

In this issue we are celebrating the month of Ramadan, what does this time mean to you and how will you be spending it this year?

Ramadan is one of my favourite times of the year. It’s time to reconnect with our faith. I like to spend it with my family and friends, to celebrate with pride and joy and I also like to share iftar with my non-Muslim friends.

What is next for you this year and for the rest of the year?

I’m working on the Maison Sara Chraibi Fall/Winter 2023 couture collection. I will also launch an e-commerce site later in the year.

What can you tell us about your brand in the Middle East and can we expect to see you here soon?

I plan to do some trunk shows in the Middle East over the coming months. The Middle East is an important market for my brand and It’s very important to establish long-term commercial partnerships there.

source/content: aeworld.com (headline edited) / Lindsay Judge

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MOROCCO

IRAQ- U.K: Sewing Queen and Surgeon Dr. Asmaa Al-Allak’s memories of Iraq are woven into her very fabric

Handed-down skills won the medic crown of Great British Sewing Bee champion.

Head bent in concentration, tape measure slung around her neck, young Asmaa Al-Allak often knelt on the floor amid piles of colourful fabric even as rockets whistled above the family home in southern Iraq.

The seven-year-old would take in every detail of her mother and grandmother flicking through pages of their favourite fashion magazine and discussing the sewing patterns for each outfit featured in that month’s issue.

While the two women traced templates on to bolts of material, Asmaa mimicked them in miniature on remnants for arguably the best-dressed Sindy doll in war-torn Basra.

Four decades later, childhood memories like these compelled Al-Allak to become a contestant on The Great British Sewing Bee 2023, a reality TV show she won in an achievement that, for her, topped even attaining a medical degree.

“Creativity is in the genes,” she tells The National, laughing over a zoom call from Wales, where the consultant breast surgeon, now 47, lives with her engineer husband and children, Sophia, 20, and Jacob, eight.

“My grandmother taught me the basics of sewing, my mother built on those and the rest is self-taught.

“The first thing I remember making for myself was a green cotton pinny dress with a floral design. Terrible! My gran was the only one who was positive, saying: ‘My God, that’s so amazing.’ But that’s grandmothers for you.”

Mariam Al-Ethan didn’t live to see her granddaughter’s greatest triumph but photographs of her were pinned to a vision board for inspiration throughout the competition, and Al-Allak proudly wore a necklace inscribed with the word “Allah” that her grandmother bought for her in a gold souq.

Married at the age of 12, Mariam had long sewed clothes for her extended family before becoming a professional seamstress out of necessity during the prolonged armed conflict between Iran and Iraq in the 1980s.

“It was a really difficult time. Even though my grandad worked, he didn’t have enough to support the family,” says Al-Allak.

In spite, or perhaps because, of being illiterate, Mariam made determined efforts to send her seven children, including Asmaa’s mother Fatima, to university.

Fatima studied at the University of Basrah before undertaking a doctorate in physics at Cardiff University with her husband, Haider, soon after baby Asmaa arrived in 1976.

Initially, Asmaa and her brother Ammar, born two years later, were raised by their maternal grandmother but joined their parents for a few years when Fatima sent for them shortly before hostilities broke out. No longer able to stay in the UK after finishing her PhD, however, Fatima returned with the children to Iraq.

Haider feared his name might be included on the Baathist regime’s list of traitors and objectors and a longed-for reunion would not occur for another eight years.

The Al-Allak siblings were plunged into a war zone, frequently changing schools as they moved between Basra and their father’s relatives near Baghdad, whichever was deemed safest as Iranian troops fired mortars across the border.

When classes were disrupted for up to three months at a time, Asmaa sat transfixed for hours watching broadcasts of the devastation.

“I’ve seen [images of] dead bodies lying in the road,” she says in a flat voice. “If the Iraqi army had a good advancement or had won a battle, they would show pictures from the front on television.

“Even though they were supposed to be the enemy, for me, they were people who had died. My decision to study medicine came because of what I’d seen in Iraq.”

She became an expert in gauging the threat from rocket fire. If a whistle could be heard overhead, Al-Allak knew it was probably going to travel farther.

The ones that didn’t whistle were the more dangerous “because you didn’t know where they would land”.

Backbone of the family

While her mother worked as an assistant professor at the University of Basrah, Al-Allak inevitably grew close to her grandmother, ever the backbone of the family.

The detached house was surrounded on three sides by other homes, and Mariam declared the small kitchen, tucked away at the rear, to be the safest of all the rooms. There, the extended family retreated during the worst bombing campaigns, lying “like sardines” on two mattresses squeezed between the oven and fridge.

For Al-Allak, the rules and rhythms of sewing became a comforting reliability in a world of chaos and confusion: if she followed a pattern, cut fabric on the bias, respected the grain line and measured correctly, a satisfying outcome was guaranteed.

“The only thing that’s kept me going and balanced in life – especially in the past few years – has been sewing.

“It’s my escape, my way to forget about all the troubles in the world and at work. I don’t think I will ever stop.”

An opportunity arose for Al-Allak to rejoin her father after the Gulf War ended in 1991 when Haider was a British citizen working as a physics researcher at Durham University.

Fatima and the children had already endured one failed attempt to leave after Saddam Hussein invaded Kuwait the year before, packing their bags and waiting in Baghdad for two days before realising all flights had been cancelled.

This time, at Mariam’s behest, she wasn’t taking any chances. “We left everything behind and walked away. There was still food in the fridge and toys on the floor.”

Ripped from her roots

If Al-Allak was devastated at being ripped from her roots, worse came on hearing of the impact the sudden separation had on her grandmother, who sat weeping surrounded by their abandoned possessions.

“It broke her heart,” she says.

After a gruelling 24-hour bus journey to Jordan, the family waited a month for visas to Britain, arriving in the north-east of England in August.

Young Asmaa had forgotten most of the words picked up during her three-year stay as a toddler, and the other pupils at Framwellgate School showed no mercy, mocking her poor grasp of the language, using racist taunts, and pulling her hijab off.

She was pushed to breaking point, and it is clear that the recollections are still painful.

“I couldn’t wait to leave. I used to go home and cry. I said to my Mum: ‘I’m not going back to school. I just can’t do it any more.’”

But Al-Allak, one in a line of strong women, developed a methodical and meticulous means of getting by. “My five-year goals keep me going through life,” she says.

“For me to become a doctor, I knew I had to get good grades. I had to cope with the surrounding environment and not let it affect me.

“My mother was a rock. She told me to rise above it and sat with me with a dictionary trying to help but English wasn’t her first language either.”

Sheer determination earned Al-Allak a place at Cardiff University to study medicine, where for the first time in her teenage years she felt a sense of belonging.

Though she had seemingly left sewing behind in the ancestral home together with her beloved Sindy doll, her mother carried on, making surgical scrubs and other outfits for her on a Singer sewing machine bought at a car boot sale.

That old Singer has since been usurped by a newer model but still sits in Al-Allak’s office near the desk where lace and fancy packaging for the bespoke mastectomy bras she creates for her patients can be glimpsed. There, too, is the Sewing Bee award, and, on a mannequin, the dress described by the show’s judges as “spellbinding”, and “a feat of genius” and “clever engineering”.

Modelled in the final by her close friend and fellow doctor Pritti Aggarwal, it unfurled in a mesmerising transition from electric blue shift dress into shimmering emerald gown.

Al-Allak’s skill at overcoming obstacles such as this last of the 10 weeks of tough sewing challenges will, she hopes, increasingly be put to use to help breast-cancer patients recover physically and mentally, unencumbered by uncomfortable bras or incorrectly positioned inserts for prosthetics.

She plans to continue campaigning for greater consistency in patient provision, while developing the mastectomy lingerie into a viable venture.

“It’s one of the things I’m really passionate about,” she says. “On the NHS, you get a prosthetic to fit in your bra for free. Sometimes the company will also offer a free bra but not always, and the pocket might be on the wrong side.

“You’ll have darker-skinned women receiving a light-coloured prosthetic because there is no other option. Patients are offered different things in different parts of Wales.”

Al-Allak talks of how she employs the same knots during suturing in surgical procedures as those used in sewing but isn’t sure whether the medical skills inform her craft or vice versa; she is inclined to think probably both.

Certainly, her love of fashion dictates the choice of “work” shoes that add several inches to her 5ft 2in frame – red-soled patent leather stilettos only swapped for pink Crocs covered in butterflies in the operating theatre.

“Because I make all my clothes, my one guilty pleasure is Louboutins ,” she admits. “I bought my first pair when I became a consultant and I only buy one pair a year.”

That taste for the finer things in life earned Al-Allak the title of “Queen Asmaa” on The Great British Sewing Bee.

Alas, Sophia, heir-apparent, has yet to take up needle and thread in any way that her mother might describe, in her strong Welsh lilt, as “proper serious” but has found an outlet for her imagination as a fine arts student.

“I think it will happen at some point,” Al-Allak says, hopefully.

Meanwhile, the two have bonded over a shared love of musicals, such as Phantom of the Opera, Wickedand Hamilton, and have been to Take That and My Chemical Romance concerts together.

Young Jacob, however, expressed an interest in sewing at seven years old, the same age his mother started, and he helps with cutting, pinning and basic stitching.

“Look what he made!” Al-Allak says, gleefully waving a pattern weight stuffed with rice.

And so the rich seam of familial creativity runs on.

source/content: thenationalnews.com (headline edited)

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Asmaa Al-Allak says winning The Great British Sewing Bee topped gaining a medical degree. Photo: BBC

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UNITED KINGDOM / IRAQ

YEMEN – SAUDI ARABIAN : Saudi Professor Dr. Manahel Thabet appointed ‘Commonwealth’s Special Envoy for Science and Technology’

Patricia Scotland, Secretary-General of the Commonwealth of Nations, has appointed Saudi Professor Manahel Thabet as her special envoy for science and technology. This decision highlights Thabet’s notable expertise and her significant contributions to the scientific and technological realms.

The Commonwealth, comprising 56 countries and representing over 2.5 billion people globally, focuses on fostering sustainable development, advanced technologies, coexistence, and peace, marking its status as a prominent entity in both political and scientific spheres.

Professor Thabet’s role will be pivotal in connecting member states to achieve sustainable development goals. Her responsibilities include facilitating communication, exchanging knowledge and expertise, directing scientific and technical research efforts, adopting best practices, and utilizing technology to tackle environmental issues.

Additionally, she will play a key role in enhancing economic cooperation, developing policies, formulating legal frameworks to foster innovation, and capacity building of scientists and professionals within the member states.

Professor Thabet’s illustrious career includes several high-profile roles. She serves as an advisor to the president of King Abdul Aziz City for Science and Technology (KACST), president of the Economic Forum for Sustainable Development, and founder president of Consortium Consultants. She is also the deputy director of the Institute for Brain Chemistry and Human Nutrition at Imperial College, vice president of the World Intelligence Network (WIN), and vice-chancellor of the UK Gifted Academy.

source/content: saudigazette.com.sa (headline edited)

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YEMEN / SAUDI ARABIA

MOROCCO: Zineb Rechiche, First Arab Woman in UAE to obtain a FIFA Football Agent licence

Zineb, a remarkable 34-year-old Moroccan woman with a passion for football and an extraordinary career journey, has made history as the first Arab woman in the UAE to obtain a FIFA Football Agent licence. This achievement marks the pinnacle of a multifaceted career that spans two decades of professional football, executive leadership roles in global corporations.

Born with a profound love for the beautiful game, Zineb embarked on her professional football journey at the tender age of 14. For an impressive 20 years, she showcased her exceptional skills on the pitch, earning acclaim and respect both locally and internationally. Her unwavering dedication and talent opened doors that would eventually lead her to a groundbreaking role as a FIFA agent.

Parallel to her football career, Zineb pursued her academic dreams, earning a Trilingual Finance Degree from HEC Montreal and further honing her skills at ICADE Business School. Armed with a strong educational foundation, she ventured into the corporate world, joining prestigious global corporations such as GE. Zineb seamlessly balanced her roles on and off the football field, demonstrating exceptional leadership and managerial prowess.

One of Zineb’s most impressive accomplishments is her cultural and linguistic versatility. Having lived in 13 countries, she possesses a deep understanding of international cultures, fostering an open-mindedness and adaptability that have been instrumental in her career success. Fluent in four languages – Arabic, English, French & Spanish – she transcends cultural and geographical boundaries with ease. Her ability to connect with individuals from diverse backgrounds has played a pivotal role in her professional success and global experiences. Her journey through these diverse landscapes has imbued her with a unique perspective that she now brings to her role as a FIFA agent.

In a life defined by extraordinary achievements, Zineb’s latest feat as the first Arab female FIFA agent in the UAE is nothing short of groundbreaking. She successfully passed the rigorous FIFA Football Agent exam, solidifying her position as a trailblazer in the world of sports and representation. Her new role will enable her to empower athletes, foster talent, and advocate for gender equality in the world of football.

Zineb serves as an inspiration to aspiring athletes, young professionals, and women worldwide, proving that determination, passion, and a commitment to excellence can break down barriers and open doors to limitless possibilities.

With this historic achievement, Zineb continues to write her own remarkable story, leaving an indelible mark on the world of sports, corporate leadership, and international relations. Her journey stands as a testament to the power of ambition and the potential of the human spirit.

source/content: gulftoday.ae (headline edited)

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Zineb Rechiche

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MOROCCO

SAUDI ARABIA: Young Saudi Designer Lamees Alfadhel Designed ‘Qitmeer’ which Produces Vegan Leather Sheets from Wasted Dates

The vegan leather-making machine Qitmeer works by grinding the dates, mixing them with additives, then pouring them into molds to start the first half of the drying process before preparing them for the finishing and coloring processes.

Curiosity was her guide, creatively unveiling the hidden wonders in the ordinary, and product designer Lamees Alfadhel designed Qitmeer, a machine that produces vegan leather sheets using damaged and wasted dates.

Qitmeer was the young designer’s graduation project. Fascinated by science, creativity, and the ability to shape human interaction with the world, Alfadhel explored several academic paths before discovering her passion and purpose in product design.

“While I may not have realized it immediately after high school, I soon discovered that product design brings together a captivating mix of different disciplines, allowing me to combine my interests and create innovative solutions,” said Alfadhel, a first-class honors product design graduate from Princess Nourah bint Abdulrahman University.

Alfadhel’s interest in culture, sustainability, and building a greener future through design sparked the young designer to base her graduation research in the natural leather industry in the Kingdom.

“I find inspiration in cultural designs that incorporate elements of my country, such as the iconic date palm trees,” she said.

She found two main challenges facing the natural leather industry in the Kingdom: the chemical damage resulting from the leather processes and the massive amount of wasted dates.

I’m looking forward to producing the most unique leather sheets in the industry. Sustainabilityisacore value guiding my work, dedicated to building a greener future through design.

Lamees Alfadhel, Product designer

“These challenges inspired me to design a machine that combines a solution for both issues,” said Alfadhel.

The vegan leather-making machine Qitmeer works by grinding the dates, mixing them with additives, then pouring them into molds to start the first half of the drying process before preparing them for the finishing and coloring processes.

The vegan leather sheets then become ready for the manufacturing and production operation, which includes the making of leather clothing and accessories.

Fibers are an essential part of the vegan synthetic leather-making process, and dates are the optimal choice for this industry, considering that they have a high fiber content.

“I’m looking forward to producing the most unique leather sheets in the industry. Sustainability is a core value guiding my work, dedicated to building a greener future through design,” said Alfadhel.

Qitmeer has been positively received by people. It encourages others to use elements and sources available in the Kingdom, explained Alfadhel.

Today, young creatives, including Alfadhel, have the opportunity to make their mark on the national and global art and design scene, with the Kingdom’s cultural renaissance supporting and inspiring a new generation, a key part of Saudi Arabia’s visionary economic and social plan to build a creative economy.

“The design community in the Kingdom has witnessed significant growth and recognition in recent years,” said Alfadhel.

“There are numerous initiatives, organizations, and government-backed programs that actively promote and support designers across various disciplines.”

Alfadhel has worked on several projects and her first was an interactive game with topic-based cards, designed to encourage teamwork.

She added: “Among the projects I’ve worked on, I take great pride in highlighting Qitmeer as my most significant achievement so far.”

Qitmeer was selected and featured in Tanween’s “Graduation Exhibition” at Ithra last November. The exhibition highlights the most outstanding work by graduates of design and architecture colleges and universities in the Arab world.

Alfadhel mostly uses Adobe Creative Cloud, Illustrator, and Photoshop for her designs. When sketching the initial idea, and 3D modeling, she uses the Fusion 360 platform.

“Fusion 360 is a fundamental part of my creative process, allowing me to bring ideas to life and refine them with attention to detail,” she said.

“Lately I’ve realized that the most used color in my designs is green, but that relies on the purpose of the product I design. Searching to understand the meaning of colors is an important step of my design process.”

The world has witnessed influential product designers who have set new standards in place, leaving a mark behind, and Alfadhel’s passion for design and unwavering commitment and determination to contribute to the design industry mark her out as a possible addition to the growing list.

She is currently working as a graphic designer and a marketing specialist in Riyadh and aspires to collaborate with local talents to foster the growth and development of young Saudi creatives in the Kingdom.

source/content: arabnews.com (headline edited)

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Lamees Alfadhel designed Qitmeer, a machine that produces vegan leather sheets using damaged and wasted dates.

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SAUDI ARABIA

SYRIA : Planting Hope: Dr. Safaa Kumari , the Syrian Refugee- Plant Virologist who Developed Virus-Resistant Super-Seeds

Plant virologist Dr Safaa Kumari discovered seeds that could safeguard food security in the region – and risked her life to rescue them from Aleppo.

The call came as she sat in her hotel room. “They gave us 10 minutes to pack up and leave,” Dr Safaa Kumari was told down a crackling phone line. Armed fighters had just seized her house in Aleppo and her family were on the run.

Kumari was in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, preparing to present a conference. She immediately began organising a sprint back to Syria. Hidden in her sister’s house was a small but very valuable bundle that she was prepared to risk her life to recover.

Kumari is a plant virologist. Her work focuses on a quiet yet devastating development crisis. Climate-fuelled virus epidemics affecting fava beans, lentils and chickpeas are spreading from Syria to Ethiopia, gradually destroying the livelihoods of low-income populations. Known as “poor man’s meat”, these pulses are vital for both income generation and food security in many parts of the world.

Finding a cure was urgent, Kumari explains. Hopeless farmers were seeing increasing levels of infected crops turning yellow and black. The cause? “Climate change provides aphids with the right temperatures to breed exponentially and spread the epidemics,” she says.

For 10 years, Kumari worked to find a solution. Finally, she discovered a bean variety naturally resistant to one of the viruses: the fava bean necrotic yellow virus (FBNYV). “When I found those resistant seeds, I felt there was something important in them,” says Kumari from her lab in Lebanon where she now works. Only the fighting in Syria had moved. “I had left them at my sister’s in central Aleppo to protect them from the fighting,” she says.

Determined not to let a war get in the way of her work “for the world’s poor”, Kumari felt it her duty to rescue the seeds in Aleppo. “I was thinking: how am I going to get those seeds out of Syria?

“I had to go through Damascus, and then drive all the way to Aleppo. There was fighting and bombings everywhere.” After two days’ driving along dangerous roads, seeds in hand, Kumari made it to Lebanon, where she now works as a researcher at Icarda (International Center for Agricultural Research in the Dry Areas) in the Bekaa valley, close to the Syrian border. Hassan Machlab, Icarda’s country manager says: “Many of the Syrian scientists we welcomed here have suffered. It is tough.”

But bringing the seeds to safety was only the beginning. Kumari needed to turn them into a sustainable solution.

As crop production collapsed in the region, producers started to rely heavily on insecticides. “Most farmers go to the field and spray it without safety material – masks and appropriate jacket,” she says. “Some are dying, others are getting sick or developing pregnancy issues.”

At first, the sample failed. “So we crossed them with another variety that had a better yield and obtained something that is both resistant and productive,” says Kumari. “When we release it, it will be environment-friendly and provide farmers with a good yield, more cheaply and without insecticide.”

Kumari now plans to distribute her super-seeds free to farmers. She has already turned down an offer from a large company for the virus detection technology.

“They wanted to buy our product and then sell it to the farmers, but we refused,” says Kumari. “Ours is free. It’s our responsibility to provide our solutions to people everywhere,” she says.

But, as for many Syrian refugees, the war is never far from her thoughts, “Something she won’t tell you is that it wasn’t easy for her,” says Machlab. “She was working on all this and she didn’t have a clear mind as her family were in Aleppo and her house was destroyed.”

Kumari adds: “Last week I saw my family in Turkey. I have five sisters and three brothers, scattered in Germany, Turkey, Syria. The last time we met was in Aleppo in 2012. When I came back someone told me ‘Safaa, you’re looking great today!’ Of course, I had just spent time with my family again!” she says, laughing.

But she adds: “It’s not easy for me, it’s not easy for a woman to work on agriculture (research). It’s not easy, but it’s OK.

“When I’m working, I’m not thinking I am a Syrian or a woman though. But I do feel I sometimes receive funding [from westerners] because I’m a woman,” she says. “Perhaps!”

source/content: thegurardian.com (headline edited)

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Dr Safaa Kumari’s seeds are resistant to the climate-fuelled viruses that have destroyed crops of pulses in Syria. Photograph: Courtesy of Arab Society for Plant Protection

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SYRIA

UA.E.: Recognized Global Pioneer: UAE to lead World Bank’s Cloud Computing Working Group. Dr. Bushra AlBlooshi, Dubai Electronic Security Center (DESC) Appointed as the Leader of the Cloud Computing Division within the World Bank Group.

Cloud computing to add $181 bn to UAE’s economy by 2033.

The UAE has been chosen to lead the Cloud Computing Working Group within the World Bank, a testament to its remarkable progress in advanced technology and digitization. Recognized as a global pioneer in digital transformation and the successful implementation of cloud computing best practices, the UAE assumes this role to support both government entities and private sector companies in their transition to cloud computing systems. By prioritizing the utilization of cutting-edge data protection and cybersecurity solutions, the UAE reaffirms its commitment to facilitating the seamless adoption of cloud technology while ensuring utmost security for all stakeholders.

Sheikh Hamdan congratulates Dr. AlBlooshi

Sheikh Hamdan bin Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum, Crown Prince of Dubai and chairman of the Executive Council, extended his congratulations to Dr. Bushra AlBlooshi from the Dubai Electronic Security Center (DESC) on being appointed as the leader of the Cloud Computing division within the World Bank Group.

In addition, Sheikh Hamdan posted the message on X (formerly Twitter) and said, “Congratulations to Dr Bushra AlBlooshi of the Dubai Electronic Security Center (DESC) on being appointed by the World Bank as the head of the World Bank Group for Cloud Computing, comprising of 27 countries, organisations, and major international technology firms.” 

He added, “We are immensely proud of the continuous achievements of Emirati talent. With their expertise and accomplishments, they further strengthen the UAE’s international stature and role in advancing global sustainable digital development.

According to her profile on the World Economic Forum (WEF), Dr. AlBlooshi possesses more than 17 years of expertise in digital transformation, cybersecurity, and strategy management. She is recognized as an author and a prominent speaker in the areas of cybersecurity and digital transformation, demonstrating her extensive experience in the field.

Significance of cloud adoption for GDP growth

A report commissioned by Amazon Web Services (AWS) revealed in May that the widespread adoption of cloud technology among the public is projected to contribute an estimated $181 billion in economic value to the UAE over the next decade. This figure represents approximately 2.5 percent of the UAE’s economy. The paper further highlighted that a mere 1 percent increase in cloud adoption by organizations in the UAE would result in an average gross domestic product (GDP) growth of 0.21 percent or $854.7 million. This growth rate is three times higher than the regional average for the Middle East and North Africa, making it the highest in the region.

source/content: economymiddleeast.com (headline edited)

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Dr. Bushra AlBlooshi of the Dubai Electronic Security Center (DESC) appointed by the World Bank as the head of the World Bank Group for Cloud Computing, comprising of 27 countries, organisations, and major international technology firms.

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UNITED ARAB EMIRATES (U.A.E.)

MOROCCO: Forbes 50 Over 50 Spotlights Moroccan Scientist Rajaa Cherkaoui El Moursli

Rajaa Cherkaoui El Moursli was part of the research team that made the groundbreaking discovery of the Higgs Boson particle.

Moroccan prominent nuclear physicist Rajaa Cherkaoui El Moursli was featured this year on the list of Forbes 50 Over 50 for the Middle East and Africa (MENA) in recognition of her outstanding scientific contributions.

El Moursli’s research has helped prove the existence of the Higgs Boson, which is the particle responsible for the creation of mass. 

“While her almost 30-year-long career in science has been filled with achievements, it’s a career that would not have existed had she not convinced her father to let her seek out a graduate degree in France in the early 1980s,” Forbes wrote. This was a time when Moroccan women were “expected to leave home to marry and not pursue a vocation.” 

After earning her Ph.D in Nuclear Physics from the University of Joseph Fourier in Grenoble, France, El Moursli returned to Morocco in 1982.  There, she joined the Faculty of Sciences at the University Mohammed V in Rabat. 

Early in her career, she took the helm as the head of the Laboratory of Nuclear Physics in Rabat.  El Moursli’s research focuses on the applications of nuclear physics, medical physics, and high-energy physics. 

A pivotal moment in her career occurred in 1996 when she became an integral part of Morocco’s participation in the international ATLAS collaboration at the European Organization for Nuclear Research (CERN). The event marked her entry into one of the world’s most prestigious scientific research centers, located in Geneva.

El Moursli’s contributions have extended beyond the laboratory giving her membership with international organizations such ATLAS, KM3NET, and ANTARES. 

Within these roles, she has been vital in creating and implementing master’s degree programs at her university, notably creating Morocco’s first master’s program in medical physics. Currently, over thirty graduates from her program hold crucial positions as radio physicists in Moroccan hospitals.

Throughout her career, she has supervised numerous doctoral and master’s students and has played a crucial role in building and strengthening academic programs.

In 2015, she became the first Moroccan to receive the L’Oreal-UNESCO award for Women in Science, representing Africa and the Arab States. 

El Moursli served as VP of Research, Innovation, Cooperation, and Partnership at Mohammed V University.  She also chaired the competition program “My Thesis in 180 Seconds.” 

Her accolades include being a fellow of the World Academy of Sciences (TWAS) and serving on the “For Women in Science” international jury. 

In 2017, she was honored by the Organization of Islamic Cooperation for her outstanding contributions to science and technology in the Islamic world.

Now in 2024, El Moursli continues to play a pivotal role in shaping the global scientific landscape and showcasing Moroccan achievements to the world. 

source/content: moroccoworldnews.com (headline edited)

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Moroccan nuclear physicist Rajaa Cherkaoui El Moursli

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MOROCCO

SUDAN Memory: The Project Digitising a Country’s History

A group of academics have spent close to a decade scanning historic documents and images and making them available online.

Sudanese academic Badreldin Elhag Musa followed the news with alarm when Al Qaeda-affiliated fighters set fire to two libraries containing historic documents in the Malian city of Timbuktu in 2013.

While local residents managed to smuggle many manuscripts to safety in advance, a Unesco team later found that some 4,200 of the documents stored in the libraries were either destroyed or stolen – about a tenth of its archives .

At the time, Elhag Musa already had concerns about the preservation of rare documents in his country. The events in Timbuktu accelerated the sense of urgency for the scholar, a member of the Sudanese Association for Archiving Knowledge (Saak).

The tragic episode served as a warning that highlighted the plight of cultural heritage artefacts in areas of actual or potential conflict – just like Sudan.

Elhag Musa set a plan in motion, connecting with King’s College London Professor Marilyn Deegan, who has over 20 years of experience in digital humanities. His goal: to find ways to safeguard as much of Sudan’s cultural heritage as possible.

A decade later, the result is Sudan Memory, a project that seeks to preserve and promote valuable cultural materials about Sudan through digitisation. The online platform aims to ensure current and future generations can benefit from the country’s rich heritage.

In total, more than 200 people and over 40 institutions have been involved in the project, which offers 60,000 digitised documents.

The results are invaluable: The materials range from manuscripts, photographs, books and films, covering a myriad of topics, as well as jewellery, traditional dresses, and artefacts from different regions spanning around 6,000 years of history.

“We never expected such success when we started,” Elhag Musa told Middle East Eye.

His colleague Deegan notes, “We’ve digitised… well over 100.000 images,” adding, “We thought we would be able to do millions…but I think we did do a lot.”

Sourcing collections

One of the reasons that prompted Elhag Musa and his colleague at Saak to protect Sudan’s cultural heritage with such urgency was that many of the country’s richest archives, particularly private collections, are in danger.

The reasons are manifold, ranging from extreme weather and lack of appropriate storage to neglect and conflict.

Many valuable collections, whether public or private, are also locked away and not easily accessible to the public.

Yet at the same time, many of Sudan’s archives and collections were in good enough condition to undertake a project like Sudan Memory, as Deegan saw for herself on her first visit to Khartoum, Omdurman and Atbara in May 2013.

“Archives in Sudan are not (like) the British Library, but they are not too bad,” she said.

Although its origins go back a decade, the Sudan Memory team was only able to start digitising documents in 2018, some time after securing funds.

At first, the focus was on large institutions; one of the entities that contributed the most was the National Records Office (NRO), which serves as Sudan’s national archives.

The NRO holds more than 30 million documents, some dating as far back as 1504 CE, and they are currently classified into around 300 collections.

Today, some of these materials can be found in the Sudan Memory archive, including early issues of The Sudan Times newspaper, as well as old magazines, rare books and precious photographs.

Another major collection included in the Sudan Memory project was provided by Al Rashid Studio, the largest private photo studio in the country.

Located in the city of Atbara, once the centre of Sudan’s railway industry and regarded as the cradle of its trade union and communist movements, the studio holds over four million negatives dating back to the 1940s.

Through these negatives, the Rashid family has captured the cosmopolitanism that once defined Atbara, as well as some of the changes Sudan has undergone in recent decades.

“What’s interesting about [it] is looking at the early images and seeing over time how things like fashion changed, and how that’s related to politics,” Deegan noted.

A turbulent process

Building the Sudan Memory archive was not an easy task, primarily as a result of political circumstances in the country.

Training could not start until scanners were imported into the country and these were not installed until July 2018, as the team had to navigate sanctions still in place at the time – a period when former president, Omar al-Bashir, was still in charge.

These restrictions also affected the purchase of other equipment and the transfer of funds to teams within Sudan. 

Additionally, in the lead-up to the revolution in Sudan in late 2018 and the period until the formation of the now-ousted transitional government, there was little stability within the country’s institutions with many regularly closing, thereby disrupting the project. 

And just as the situation began to settle down and work restarted, the Covid-19 pandemic hit in early 2020, once again putting a hold on scanning in local institutions.

Throughout this turbulent process the project stayed going thanks to the efforts of Katharina von Schroeder, Sudan Memory’s project manager in Khartoum.

“Just like many other projects, Covid times were difficult,” Elhag Musa said.

“But for us the passion was great, and as Marilyn continued to work on targeting international sources [of funding], we went on to focus on training talented team members on digitisation skills,” he added.

As if all this was not enough, the military coup of October 2021, which derailed the fragile transition in the country, further aggravated political instability in Sudan and delayed the project’s launch in Khartoum indefinitely.

“It has just been so turbulent over the last few years,” Katherine Ashley, another of Sudan Memory’s project managers, told MEE.

“But people, if anything, have become as or even more generous and excited to share their collections and do things about it,” she noted.

Private collections

About halfway through the project, the Sudan Memory team decided to expand beyond the country’s major institutions and dive into private collections as well.

And that’s when Ashley, who has extensive experience in the field, came in.

“The big collections are amazing, but the ones that people feel so passionate about are (ones) hidden away in people’s homes; private collections and stories,” she said.

“This is what (made me realise) how important it is to try and make some effort…on Sudan and record some of these oral histories and stories,” Ashley added.

One such preserved collection is that of  Sadia el-Salahi , a Sudanese artist and designer born in 1941 in Omdurman and famous for her pioneering work on Sudanese folklore and traditional costumes.

In 1968, Salahi joined the Sudanese Ministry of Culture and became the first Sudanese national to hold the position of head costume designer, according to Sudan Memory.

“She sadly passed away…but we were lucky to record what was left of her collection and also do a video recording about her career and life story,” Ashley said of Salahi, who died in 2022.

Another jewel in the crown of the Sudan Memory project is an interactive 3D reconstruction of Suakin Island , on the west coast of the Red Sea, as it was in 1900.

The portal also features some important documentation about the history of the island, and links to digitised content about it.

To a great extent, the reconstruction of Suakin was possible thanks to Mohamed Nour, a local Sudanese citizen, and his family, who dedicated their life to building a museum of the island’s history through photographs, artefacts and other documents.

“It’s a lifelong work that they are continuing,” Ashley said.

Remembering Sudan’s Jewish community

A significant part of the archive created by Sudan Memory does not come from within the country but by a process they call digital repatriation: content about Sudan acquired from institutions and individuals abroad.

“We are bringing Sudanese materials back into the country,” Deegan noted, adding: “We are pushing Sudanese materials out to the world, but also bringing stuff back in.”

One example is the Tales of Jewish Sudan archive , a collection of stories, photos and recipes from Sudan’s Jewish community compiled by historian Daisy Abboudi, a descendant of the Sudanese-Jewish community born in the UK.

The history of Sudan’s Jews is difficult to trace, but Abboudi has documented that from the early 20th century onwards, Jews from all over the Middle East and North Africa began to arrive after the building of a rail connection to Cairo by the British army.

At its peak in 1950s, Sudan’s Jewish community numbered approximately 250 families, mainly concentrated in Khartoum, Omdurman and Wad Madani. And its members were predominantly merchants involved in the textiles, silks and Arabic gum trades.

“The community was very active, they had a club, a synagogue… It was an equipped, functioning community,” Abboudi told MEE.

“It was small, but I think that that made it even more vibrant and active,” she added.

However, from the mid-20th century onwards, and for reasons ranging from the establishment of the State of Israel to the rise in antisemitic incidents and rhetoric in Sudan, the Jewish community began to shrink amid successive waves of emigration.

According to Abboudi, by the end of 1973 following the Arab-Israeli war, the last remaining Jews left Sudan.

To prevent the memory of the once vibrant Jewish community in Sudan from fading, Abboudi started Tales of Jewish Sudan in 2015 with the aim of preserving its history and stories before it was too late – a goal now shared with Sudan Memory.

“Living in the more Ashkenazi-dominant British community, I felt that my history was neglected, ignored or somehow not present. And that’s why I started,” she said.

“But also for my generation and the generations to come, because I realised that as soon as those people are no longer here, that community will be forgotten,” she explained further.

Another curious example of repatriated Sudanese materials comes from Air Tickets History , a collection belonging to Greek collector, Gklavas Athanasios, that today holds over 4,500 airline tickets and boarding passes from more than 1,000 airlines spanning six continents. 

The extensive collection includes several documents dated from 1960 to 1983 from Sudanese airlines, such as Sudan Airways, the national airline; also one of the first airlines in Africa, Mid Airlines, a charter airline established in Khartoum in 2002, and Marsland Aviation.

“I started collecting tickets when I was eight and had my first flight with Olympic Airways, from Athens to Samos Island,” Athanasios told MEE. “But about the Sudanese tickets I unfortunately don’t have much information, as I bought them on Ebay many years ago.”

All in all, the compilation of these documents gathered from major institutions and private collections both inside and outside Sudan helps to build up a complex picture of the memory of a nation.

“We were optimistic, but we didn’t expect at all that we would succeed in the organisation of such magnificent collaboration,” Elhag Musa said.

And the process that has been followed also serves to pave the way to go further.

“What we do have at least is a much broader understanding of what is there and what else could be done in the future,” Ashley said.

“And we now have established a process to do it.”

This article is available in French on Middle East Eye French edition.

source/content: middleeasteye.net / Middle East Ege (headline edited)

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The Rashid Studio has more than four million negatives dating back to the 1940s (Sudan Memory)

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SUDAN

LEBANESE Powerlifter Joya Khairallah becomes the World’s Strongest 22-year-old

She has broken two world records at 2023 International Powerlifting Federation World Junior Championships.

When she stepped on to the platform amid enthusiastic cheers from her supporters, Lebanese powerlifter Joya Khairallah, 22, was faced with a steel bar loaded with several red plates weighing an impressive total of 183.5kg.

This was an immense challenge for the young woman, weighing only 52kg, but she had to overcome it if she wanted to claim first-place at the 2023 International Powerlifting Federation (IPF) World Junior Championships.

No one in her category had ever accomplished this feat, until August 29 in Cluj-Napoca in Romania, when Miss Khairallah firmly grasped the heavy bar and pulled it from the ground level to her hips, a movement called a “deadlift” – one of three lifts performed in powerlifting.

When she reached the lockout position, marking the end of the movement, she screamed in triumph and knelt to the floor, having just broken the world record.

“After stepping on to the platform, I initially had doubts because I was exhausted, and my back was hurting, but I persevered, I got it and I won,” she told The National in Beirut during her first training session, a few days after the international competition.

“There’s no actual word that really describes how I felt. It feels wonderful, but I’m still a bit in denial,” she added.

The Lebanese champion achieved a total of 428.5kg for the three lifts (bench, squat, and deadlift), setting yet another IPF Junior World Record in her weight class.

This exceptional performance earned Khairallah a gold medal in the competition for Lebanon.

The country has been grappling with an unprecedented economic crisis for four years and had made the headlines for its shortages of basic goods, and numerous corruption cases.

But this time, the country has been celebrating athletic achievements.

“It’s a big honour for me to represent Lebanon, I raised the flag high. I hope I could give hope to people, even though we’re going through a lot in Lebanon,” Khairallah said, sporting a small Lebanese flag painted on one of her nails.

Another Lebanese powerlifter, Etienne El Chaer, 22, set two world records in the Junior’s under 120kg categoryandclaiming gold at the same competition.

‘Women can be powerful, just like men’

Khairallah’s journey has not been easy.

Born in Beirut, the young woman started training in high school five years ago.

As she dedicated more time to her passion, she met significant resistance.

Powerlifting is generally labelled as a man’s sport and Khairallah had to challenge deeply ingrained gender stereotypes within Lebanese society.

“I met a lot of people who said that I shouldn’t lift weights because it’s a sport for men and that having a lot of muscles doesn’t look beautiful on a girl and that it takes away some of our femininity”, she said, with her carefully curled dark hair flowing down her shoulders.

She recalls with a laugh that her mother once told her not to wear a dress at her sister’s wedding because she had become too muscular.

But she persevered.

“I enjoy proving people wrong, and I love doing what I’m passionate about. Women can be powerful, just like men, and it’s an incredible feeling,” she said.

After high school, she trained hard to become a certified coach. Her parents, although unfamiliar with the sport, eventually supported her.

She now works as a personal trainer and runs a home-made peanut butter business called “Joya the Ant Peanut Butter”.

She said that her accomplishments have required many “sacrifices,” such as strict dietary discipline, rigorous training, and missing out on nights out and weekends with her family.

But her dedication is paying off. She has participated in five international competitions over the past five years, including two world championships, and secured a silver medal in the 2022 event.

But being an athlete in Lebanon comes with many financial challenges.

The Lebanese champion says special athletes’ food, membership fees, dedicated equipment, and travel expenses to competitions are all costly.

“So, they really do add up, and in our current financial situation, it’s not easy,” she said.

Furthermore, athletes from certain countries also have to navigate the endless struggle of securing a visa.

Khairallah said that she did not receive her visa until the day before her scheduled flight to Romania.

“During my last training sessions, I was training hopelessly. These were the crucial final sessions where I should have been entirely focused on the weights, but I couldn’t concentrate because I was scared I wouldn’t get the visa, and that I wasn’t going to make my dream come true,” she told The National.

She eventually obtained the precious document and realised not only her dream but also that of her many Lebanese supporters.

source/content: thenationalnews.com (headline edited)

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Lebanese powerlifter Joya Khairallah, aged 22. Matthew Kynaston / The National

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LEBANON